Several years ago, I tinkered around with various solutions for making long-lasting soap
bubbles and films. The best of these, heavy in glycerin, produced two foot diameter
bubbles which lasted about twenty minutes before they succumbed to evaporation and
drainage. Although glycerin dramatically retards evaporation, it is expensive and messy,
and solutions made with it really ought to sit quietly for a day or better before they
are used to allow for proper mixing. This situation doesn't lend itself to impromptu
experimentation, so I was delighted when I ran across an apparatus designed by
Dr. Maarten Rutgers which produces large soap films which last indefinitely, using
ordinary dish soap and a few dollars worth of materials. The film shown here is about
two feet wide by six feet high; using similar equipment, Dr. Rutgers has produced films
up to 12 by 50 feet, which last for several minutes. Smaller films can last for hours.
Because the solution flows continuously, no part of the film is exposed to the air for
more than a few seconds, rendering evaporation moot. By adjusting the flow rate, the
thickness of the film can be varied; thinner films, such as those shown here,
exhibit more brilliant colors, but are more fragile than thicker ones. Very large rates
drive the film into supersonic flow, causing it to oscillate madly and eventually
destroy itself.
When the film does break, it contracts very quickly, throwing droplets of solution
in all directions. It's probably a good idea to put a tarp down on the floor, or set
up in the garage. A gallon of water with a quarter cup of Joy or Dawn dish soap added
will last for an hour or more, and can be reused if you are especially frugal.
Although we were limited by the height of the ladders, we hope to perform this demonstration
again with the nozzle suspended from the ceiling of the gym, about twenty five feet up. We
are searching for other tall spaces in the area as well.
Light from the diffuse source should reflect off the soap film towards the camera, as
shown. As the angle A becomes very small, the amount of light reflected from the
soap film decreases; a film illuminated head-on reflects less than 10 percent of the
light hitting it. As A increases, so does the amount of reflected light, but
the film presents a narrower face to the camera. A happy compromise for A seems
to be about 15 degrees. The pictures shown here were taken with ASA 800 film at
f1.8 and 1/250 second exposure, with illumination provided by two 500 watt
halogen lights. It would be interesting to try other light sources, such as fluorescent
lamps or a Xenon flash, which have discrete spectral peaks.
Finally, it would be interesting to extend this technique to bubbles, perhaps making
a nozzle from two concentric funnels. Some care would be needed to ensure a consistent
flow rate all the way around the circumference. Very large bubbles would eventually
fall off the nozzle due to their weight; it might be prudent to use hot air in such
cases to give them a bit more buoyancy.
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Dr. Rutgers has very detailed
instructions available, along with several articles describing the physics of
soap films, which he uses to visualize fluid flow. Briefly, the device consists of a
large loop of fishing line. The upper end of the loop is fed through a length of 1/8
inch tubing, which in turn is fed into a reservoir of soap solution. The bottom of the
loop is attached to a small weight, while additional pieces of line are attached
to the sides of the loop which allow it to be pulled open. Solution from the reservoir
constantly flows down the loop, which produces a soap film when opened. The weight
pulls the loop closed when the side pulls are released, allowing a new film to be formed
quickly.
Not surprisingly, kids flock to this thing. If you get an object wet with solution,
you can insert it into the film and observe the flow pattern around it. Fingers are
a good choice; the film will tend to creep towards your wrist as it tries to minimize
its area by seeking the thickest part of your finger. Blowing on the film is fun, too,
although it is hard to get a bubble to separate without breaking.
Some of these pictures were taken during a demonstration I did at the Kingsbury School in
Oxford, Michigan. The films here are about eight feet high, and are suspended from a couple
of ladders; we used a fishing reel to pull the loop open. Even with kids blowing on the film
and sticking their hands through it, we had several films that lasted for ten minutes or
more. When the film does break, it only takes a few seconds to pull a new one, so all
the students had a chance to play with it individually.
Lighting is especially important in making the films visible, particularly if you want
to photograph them. They are best viewed against a black background. A broad, diffuse
light source should be positioned in front of the film, illuminated as brightly and
evenly as possible. Bed sheets work well for both applications. Try to shade the camera
from direct glare from the light source.
Originally posted January 27, 1999.